Skip to content

Wave Hindcast Variables

Variables available in the U.S. WPTO wave hindcast. Each variable is requested by its Hindcast Variable Id, and maps directly to a SWAN model "bulk parameter".

Variables

Name SWAN Name Symbol Units Hindcast Variable Id Description
Significant Wave Height HSIGN \(H_{m_0}\) meters significant_wave_height Significant wave height
Energy Period TMM10 \(T_e\), \(T_{-10}\) seconds energy_period Energy period
Omni-Directional Wave Power \(J\) watts per meter omni-directional_wave_power Omnidirectional wave power
Mean Wave Direction DIR degrees clockwise from true north mean_wave_direction Mean wave direction
Peak Period RTP \(T_p\) seconds peak_period Relative peak period of the variance density spectrum (in the absence of currents)
Maximum Energy Direction \(\theta_J\) degrees clockwise from true north maximum_energy_direction Direction of maximum wave energy
Directionality Coefficient \(d\) unitless, range from 0 to 1 directionality_coefficient Directionality coefficient
Spectral Width \(\epsilon_0\) unitless, range from 0 to 1 spectral_width Spectral width

Symbols

Symbols follow IEC 62600-101, which the standard refers to as "parameters".

Additional Variables

Name SWAN Name Symbol Units Hindcast Variable Id Description
Mean Period PER seconds mean_average_period Mean absolute wave period, equivalent to \(T_{m_{01}}\)
Mean Absolute Zero Crossing Period TM02 \(T_z\), \(T_{02}\) seconds mean_zero_crossing_period Mean absolute zero crossing period
Peak Wave Direction PDIR degrees clockwise from true north peak_wave_direction Peak wave direction, determined by wave power

Metadata

Each point carries an associated metadata entry in the hindcast data that identifies non time-varying values.

Name SWAN Name Symbol Units Hindcast Variable Id
X Coordinate XP decimal degrees longitude longitude
Y Coordinate YP decimal degrees latitude latitude
Depth DEPTH \(h\) meters depth

Coming Soon

Per-variable documentation, including equations, valid ranges, and usage guidance, is under development.